Do you know the way to St. Tropez?

Making last minute arrangements for a quick mid-week trip to St. Tropez from Paris is very easy, and quite a treat in early spring. From Paris-Orly (West Terminal), Air France offers frequent service to Toulon which is approximately 45 kilometers from St. Tropez. Leaving my hotel on Avenue George V, the taxi ride was only about a 25 minute ride leaving in the afternoon, and the flight itself was just over an hour. Other than flying private from Paris, the Orly to Toulon commercial route relatively drama free. Also, there is much less traffic driving east from Toulon to Saint Tropez (as opposed to enduring the traffic in St. Maxim when driving from Nice).

I enjoy the serenity of Saint Tropez very much in the Spring in that its such a wonderful place to relax, write, jog and bike. And, I must admit, I enjoy the intensity and energy of the sun and the scene in Sumer. My recommendations for Summer ’09….
Accomodations

Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club
Unless I’m staying on a boat, my preference is to stay outside of the Village of Saint Tropez in Ramatuelle where there a number of villas available for rent. Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club can arrange both villa rentals and yacht charters in the area. The service can also arrange moped rentals for guests which is really the best way to travel given how horrific the traffic can be in and out of Saint Tropez.

1 (310) 595 4847
La Reserve Ramatuelle
This Hotel and Spa, originally built in the 60s, is undergoing a complete renovation and scheduled to open May 2009. Fabulous Views and has a Super Wow Factor!

33 (0)4 94 79 14 28
www.lareserve-ramatuelle.com

Treats & Haunts

The Village of Ramteulle is a charming medieval collection of restaurants, hotel and shops just a few kilometers from Saint Tropez. Ramatuelle is one of my most favorite places in the world. Its very chic because its so authentic and not overrun with what competitive tourists.

ALM is a new discovery in Ramatuelle. The concept is a collection of three buildings featuring an art gallery, a furniture boutique and an atelier. Goodies include beautifully curated modern art, lighting and accessories as well as jewelry, candles and beach accessories. Shipping to the US is relatively easy, and ALM’s signature died pillow cases made from antique lines easily fit into a suitcase.

The three proprietors are incredibly hospitable offering coffee, biscuits and wonderful conversation. I spent an afternoon in their garden listening to their story and admiring their passion for linens, photography and architecture.

33 (0)6 11 62 01 63
Bathing Spots and Watering Holes

Le Club 55 (in the spirit of 54!)
Featuring outdoor dining and mattress service, the “scene” is a perfect mix of Bankers, Models, Fashion Figures, Russians and Gays, and the proprietor is not impressed with a bad attitude with so many “fabulous” patrons vying for the best tables. A bit of charm and a touch of patience does seem to endear a respectable table. Patience might include taking a bottle of rose on chaises longues a la plage while waiting for a table. No one eats before 2pm. The sole is fantastic and so is the music.

I love the pageantry at 55!

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 55 55 55

Key West
Located just around the corner from 55, this beach club is a nice alternative to the “scence”, and a more appropriate selection for those who travel with children. The food and the service are both wonderful, although the beach is a bit narrower.

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 79 86 58

L’Esquinade
Fans of the dining shacks along Highway 27 from the East Hampton to Montauk would love this beach side restaurant famous for its mussels. The atmosphere is the opposite of a scene with an authentic Provencal ambiance.

I ordered les moules pastis and soaked every drop of juice from my pot of mussels.

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 79 83 42

La Plage des Salins
Casual-chic dining with tables sitting on the sand. This beach club is popular with locals. Father Manu and daughter Celia run the show at Salins, and both are incredibly hospitable.

Route des Salins
33 (0)4 94 97 15 66

Accessories a la plage…

The Beach Bag
ALM-Boutique in Ramatuelle sells great bags made of burlap and canvas that are fantastic for carrying beach bags and buying groceries at the farmer’s market.

Towels and Bathing Suits
The Shop at Club 55 is the best place for towels and bathing suits. The shop produces a “fashion show” during lunch complete with models in bikinis (but the real show is watching the actual patrons primp and strut!)

Both Kiwi and Vilebrequin have boutiques along Rue Gambetta in Saint Tropez. Personally, I’m a bit bored with both lines. I like the Parker and Ronan suits (available at Saks in New York).

The boutiques Erthee tucked away in the passage near rue Clemenceau and Bla-Bla located on Place de la Garrone are not to be missed by the ladies looking for a great selection of Choos, Missonni beach ware and Lanvin evening ware.

The Jewelry
Frojo Joaillerie at Place de la Garrone (ask for Swedish Suzanne).
33 (0)4 94 97 58 13

Francesca Dona Jewelry at Rue de la Ponche.
33 (0)4 94 49 00 29

The Sandals
Rondini located on Rue Clemenceau is known for the Tropeziennes sandals.

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Drinks with the housekeeper in East Hampton

So, I was having drinks with the housekeeper in East Hampton the other day and I commented on her new Louis Vuitton bag from the welovesprouse.com collection. Every few months she seemed to have a new one. Real ones, not the fakes.

Was she affected by the crisis, I asked? She replied very matter-of-fact that Housecleaning in the Hamptons is like Heathcare in America; it’s a recession proof industry. Even though she has steady income, she volunteered that she had to make choices in life…she’s on a budget after all. For example, she nodded to her new Escalade parked next to my 1998 Ford F-150 and lectured me that she didn’t opt for the platinum package because the gold package was good enough…and she wanted to save her money for handbags.

As we finished off a bottle of Wolffer Rose, I told her I was trying to better monetize Mr. Gatsby’s Chic Experiences. Could she share some of her ideas as an entrepreneur?

She told me that gouging me $25 an hour was really a loss leader for her as she lit-up a cigarette on my terrace and asked me to get her an ashtray. She made her real money through “affiliate programs” and “repackaging”.

Through a very structured network, she explained that she receives distribution “royalties” from an affiliation of gardeners, pool men, handymen and caterers whom she refers to her client base. The royalties she receives from referring into the program range from ten to thirty percent in perpetuity. Additionally, she bills the client hourly for meeting service affiliates, in effect double dipping.

When she helps cater events, often she is given left over bottles of alcohol, wine and champagne that she repackages and sells through the affiliate network. Open bottles are deeply discounted while sealed bottles are sold at a 20% discount below retail. Clients can also request to purchase alocohol from her inventory which she charges at full retail, plus delivery fee. Had I asked her to pick up the case of wine from which we were drinking?

Fascinated by this sophisticated revenue model, I wanted to learn more, but had to end the conversation as I saw the electrician pulling up in a Range Rover to adjust a dimmer in my cottage. Was he waving to me or the housekeeper?

I found it strange that the electrician was so quick to respond to my request which I had submitted only a few days earlier. As he came into the garden, something in his stride told me he wasn’t here to adjust the light. The housekeeper sensing my disorientation, explained that she hadn’t expected me to linger so long at the cottage given this was the off season. I then realized this house was effectively hers until Memorial Day. She had invited members of the affiliate program to the cottage for a cocktail party. Could I stay? Of course, but somehow the tables seemed to have turned as I found myself serving drinks and emptying ash trays…

(Legal Disclaimer: Characters are fictionalized in this story….)

YSL-Le Costume Populaire Russe

Spring has arrived in Paris! Winter cashmere scarves are making way for linen scarves: saturated lavender, egg yolk yellow and kelly green. The scarves were out in full force last night at a private reception Pierre Berge hosted at his Fondation in conjunction with le Musee Ethnograhique de la Russie. Berge was Yves Saint Laurent’s business partner and life partner. My jet-setting Parisian host introduced me to Pierre whom we congratulated on the success of YSL-Berge auction last month, and he in turn invited us to take a look at the exhibit.

The exhibit showcased 19th and 20th Century native Russian costumes juxtaposed against YSL’s Russian collections from the mid 70s and late 90s. It was very interesting to see how the peasant colors and textures were interpreted into haute couture. More interesting was the fact that there were many American Franco-files and suspiciously few Russians at the event?

After a couple of glasses of champagne, we began to think of plans for dinner. The archivist at the foundation, a native New Yorker, made the comment to us that the 16th is such a boring place. I disagreed with her. To me the 16th feels very authentic, very Parisian. This arrondissement reminds me of the upper Eastside. Its an established neighborhood, an institution.

Ironically, we left the 16th and headed to the 8th to eat at la Maison de l’Aubrac on rue Marbeuf. The downstairs looks like some sort of Swiss Chalet on crackrock, and is primarily reserved for tourists. However, the upstairs is very hip and has a similar vibe and menu to Citta Nuova in East Hampton. We were initially told, “it’s not possible” to sit upstairs as we had no reservation. My host flashed a smile and said the American he was dining with is difficult, would it be possible to sit upstairs….It was possible.

37 rue Marbeuf
75008 Paris
www.maison-aubrac.com

Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go

As I was walking by the Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Eylsees, I thought of a very good friend who is a ‘top reporter’ for a fashion rag. I’m always intrigued when she poses the question “what was your inspiration for this collection?”. I really think she’s asking “who did you copy, knock-off or exploit for this commercial venture?”.

In the Georgia, my people are able to artfully deliver an insult and absolve themselves of guilt by ending a slur with the phrase “Bless his or her heart”. (Hillary is intelligent, but has really fat ankles…Bless her heart). In fashion, designers absolve themselves of the guilt of exploiting other designers by “Paying Tribute”.

This year, Vuitton “pays tribute” to Stephen Sprouse.

www.welovesprouse.com

Orange, Pink and Lime Neon colors with allusions to Street Graffiti. I’ve seen it all before…everyone’s seen it all before.

Hadn’t MTV and Martha Quinn already brought punk to the proletariat in the early 80s? Grace made me a “Slave to the Rhythm” and Madge had me “Burning Up” as I walked around rural Georgia in my Vans, neon lime Parachute pants, cream Members-Only jacket with a boombox in one hand and black rubber bracelets dangling from my pre-pubescent wrist.

Yet, I began to obsess “are those clever Vuitton marketers looping WHAM’s Make It Big Album?”. Of course I couldn’t make it in to find out as there were over 100 Japanese tourists waiting in line to enter the flagship which looked more like a Disney Store than a Parisian Boutique. So I studied each window. Are those neon striped sneakers meant to be worn with dolphin shorts or with basketball shorts? Was I allowed to think of putting together my own outfit, or was I meant buy the coordinating Vuitton shirt, pants and sandals? Was the joke on me?

Did Vuitton really need to bring Punk back to the People? This campaign felt very “Bling” with an insincere Punk veneer. Bling is Boring and not very “New Economy”. Marc Jabobs, Wake me up before you go-go…..

The Dunes of Amagansett

Committed through Labor Day 2009.
Available for Winter Rental

Featured in Hamptons Cottages & Gardens

5 Bedrooms including nursery.  3 Bedrooms with bathrooms ensuite. 4 Bathrooms in total.

Heated Pool.  Roof Deck with Views of Ocean.  Short stroll to beach (no busy streets for children to cross).

Hollywood Bungalow

Featured in HOUSE BEAUTIFUL MAGAZINE. Craftsman Bungalow in Historic Spaulding Square. Lush private garden perfect for outdoor dining and napping! The self-contained Guest House makes this home is perfect for writers, artists or small families traveling with grandparents or nannies.